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My mokume gane bands are offered in metal combination that balance durability
and color contrast. Etching can be used on all of my mokume gane bands to
enhance the pattern. Surface treatments such as patinas on high copper alloys
or tarnishing sterling silver are not used bring out the mokume gane pattern
because they may wear off quickly or use matals that can self etch or cause
staining on the skin.
Below is a table listing metals that I use in my mokume gane bands and other metals.
Note that different carats and colored golds vary in hardness and that fine is very soft,
so is not appropriate for every day use in mokume gane bands.
Metal Vickers Hardness
14k yellow 140
14k royal yellow . . . . . .195
18k royal yellow 125
14k red . . . . . . . . . . 125
18k red 195
14 k palladium white . . . .150
18k palladium white 130
Pure Palladium . . . . . . .81
Pure Silver (fine silver) 35
Traditional sterling silver 75
Platinum Sterling 3.5% . . 90
Pure Gold (24k gold). . . . 30
Platinum/Iridium 902 115
Platinum/Ruthenium 952. . . 130
My mokume gane bands contain only contains precious metals which are tarnish
resistant. I use platinum sterling silver in my mokume bands, which contains
3.5% platinum and is much more tarnish resistant than traditional sterling silver
which is 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper. The high copper content in traditional
sterling silver causes tarnishing. I also don't use high copper alloys including
shakudo in my mokume gane bands for this reason. Shakudo usually contains 96% pure
copper and 4% pure gold. While these are sometimes used in mokume gane bands, they
are inappropriate because they may react to your body chemistry and the environment
which can discolor your finger, the patina may wear off, or they can self etch deeply
over a few years.
Mokume gane patterning is best brought out with a matte finish and etching. The
depth of etching can be controlled for with a light or deep etch. The 18k and
14k tri gold mokume gane rings can be etched to remove the red and yellow golds
and the gold and platinum sterling metal combinations can be etched by removing
the platinum sterling silver. The outside and inside of my mokume ban can be
etched or just the outside.
My mokume gane rings are available in two comfort fit profiles.
The half round comfort fit profile is domed on the top and bottom. The flat with
rounded sides profile is flat in the center of the ring and beveled on all corners.
Squared profile options are also available, but the mokume gane pattern shows better
on the comfort fit profiles because there is more surface area to show the pattern.
My mokume gane bands are from 1.5mm to 2.2 tall. Because all my mokume gane bands
are comfort fit, taller bands feel more comfortable and are more wear resistant.
My mokume gane rings are available from 3mm to 8mm wide. Wider bands show the
mokume gane patterning better. Men most often order the 6mm or 7mm wide mokume gane bands
and women most often order the 4mm or 5mm mokume gane bands.
My mokume bands are patterned by twisting a 11 - 20 layered bar of colored gold
combinations or gold and platinum silver combinations 2 - 8 times. The bar is then rolled
square and the mokume gane pattern are revealed by selectively removing layers by using files
and various shaped drill bits. The simple woodgrain, random woodgrain and twist mokume gane patterns
appear after several steps of metal removal, each time refining the pattern
The woograin mokume gane pattern can be modified by varying the number of twists from 2 to 8
twist. The higher the number of twist the tighter the mokume patterning will be. The two
options for woodgrain mokume gane patternng are the simple and random woodgrain pattern. The
simple pattern has a more uniform pattern going around the ring and the random mokume gane
woodgrain pattern has a busier less uniform pattern. Mokume gane patterns can be enhanced by
etching one or two of the metals to give a 3-D effect.
Mokume gane rings can be sized up or down 1 size without changing the pattern. Ring sizers
are available in the width, heigh and profile orderd, to ensure that your mokume gane band
will fit perfectly.
© 2004-2006 | 615-469-4789
Jewelry designer specializing in the ancient art of mokume gane.
Metals used in mokume gane bands
Hardness ratings for precious metals
Tarnish resistance for metals used in mokume gane bands
Finishes available for mokume gane bands
Profiles available for mokume gane bands
Thickness available for mokume gane bands
Widths available for mokume gane bands
How mokume gane bands are patterned
Mokume gane patterning options
Sizing mokume gane bands
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